Category: Upgrades & Things I think about

At one point I was getting worried about being delayed and missing our connection at Phoenix, so I stopped and asked the flight attendant about gates and times (it was later pointed out to me that Phoenix was an hour time change so we had that going for us). We chatted for a few minutes and I found out that she and her husband live on a Hunter 450 in Kema Texas. She asked about how to get rid of boat odors. So, that is what this post is about.
Here is what we have done:
– [ ] Dehumidifier it runs all summer while the boat is here in Mexico, it sits on the counter and drains to the galley sink and the drain valve for that is open so it goes overboard.
– [ ] Wipe everything down with vinegar
– [ ] Clean the bilge, I use a variety of boat soap, bilge cleaner and just plain dishwashing soap
– [ ] Open all the hatches and ventilate the boat regularly especially when we are at anchor, we close everything up while underway (safety reasons)
– [ ] Use FRESH water for the heads, if your toilets use raw water from what you are sailing through for flushing the toilets, you will save water, but the downside is that the organisms that live in that live in the water die in the hoses and as they rot they stink. If you use fresh water from your water system, that odor will eventually go away.
– [ ] We use a NO STANK filter on our holding tank vent. This is an activated charcoal filter so that the holding tank vent is filtered.
https://www.searussales.com/

• [ ] Some other ideas check this book out:
  Get Rid of Boat Odors

The author is/was known as the HEADMISTRESS this was the 2nd edition and was written in 2016. But the ideas in it still make sense. It is available on Kindle for $9.95.

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This is an update written on 3/1/2025.

We anchored at San Blas, Mexico actually in Matachen Bay, this is huge bay and pretty shallow. We were more than a mile off shore (there are a lot of little no-see-ums there). It is basically a swamp near the bay. There is a bunch of stuff that gets washed in to the bay. This stuff rots on the bay floor, and when I pulled up the anchor there was more than the normal amount of mud on the chain. We have an anchor Washdown pump and hose that allows us to wash the chain off. This is not optional in the case of this mud. Our anchor locker drains to the bilge, which means whatever mud I did not get off before the chain got into the locker goes to the bilge and stinks. So, wash your chain.

Next up we anchored at Isla Isabela, which is home to the Blue Footed Boobies, and Frigate birds. They had virtually no predators on this island (until Man brought them some (rats and ??) There are so many birds here, and since we usually anchor with the land blocking the wind… the bird stink is blown onto our boat. Nothing to do here but put up with it until we move.

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In January of this year (yes it has been 10 months!) our MasPower 8kw generator failed. Our first thought was bad fuel. Another boat in the Panama Posse had issues with their fuel that had been gotten at the same dock as we had (La Cruz, near Puerto Vallarta) the fuel was dyed purple indicating no road tax etc. it felt gritty. We pumped out about 150 gallons and gave it away in Barra de Navidad, Mexico and refilled (at about 20 pesos to the liter for 160 gallons) bled the fuel system and tried a variety of fixes to the engine. I got a boroscope to look inside the tank while it was empty, looked very good.Nothing worked, generator still not working. Other issues, the control panel on the generator has a “button” that shifts the controls to a remote panel. That had pushed through the outside and part of it was missing. Discussing this with MasPower we determined that the panel “might” be the cause so we replaced that panel. Note: we are in Mexico so getting parts is more than a little difficult. Needless to say this did not fix the problem.
During this time, I had some illness (still unidentified) that put me down for about 2 months, I lost 25 lbs, and was severely fatigued. I have recovered, but I am still seeing a doctor about what it was.
Finally we started looking at what else it could be, with help from MasPower more diagnostics were done. We determined the Exciter coil was shorted and that repair part was a new generator end. As I said we are in Mexico, so the price of sending the generator back to them for rework was huge as in Not going to happen. We evaluated running the watermaker from a small generator and discovered that it is too big to run on a Honda 2200 generator. I looked for a generator repair person/team here in Banderas bay. I had someone in June who was able to confirm the exciter was bad and that I had wired the new control panel in correctly. So, I ordered the new generator end and had it shipped to the boat. This took about 6 weeks to get from Florida to the boat. We of course were back in the states by then.

When we got back to the boat in early October, I could not get the tech who had diagnosed the exciter to come back to the boat, or answer my calls. He had spent about 3 hours of his time working and not accepted any money, he said he would get paid when it worked. Oh well, he is one of about 3 or 4 that were involved that did not get paid, even when I was standing there wallet out and ready to pay.

So, here we were on the boat with a new generator end in a box on deck and a broken generator in the engine room. This is a bigger job than I want to tackle. So, I turned to Facebook and the local sailors for recommendations for someone to work on the generator. After a half dozen failed attempts I found a group Richards Marine Service who came down and gave us an estimate and showed up today (Monday 10/17/22). By noon they had the box off the generator and out of the engine room, they had also found out the bearing on the back end was bad which is what caused the exciter coil to fail.

$600 fuel in Barra (this is approximate, 160 gallons at 20+pesos to the liter and ~20 pesos to the dollar), the fuel wasn’t bad.

$229.43 for the controller

$76.94 for the import tax and shipping in Mexico

$2418.68 for the generator

725.40 for import tax and shipping in Mexico

$1,280 INSTALL ESTIMATE

10/21/2022

The repair shop for the exhaust mixing elbow repaired both the original and the one I we installed in 2018. Both came directly from MasPower, one on the generator when new (?) the other purchased in 2018. Both have a piece inside to direct the seawater in the direction of the exhaust, in the case of the original, this piece is broken off so the sea water just goes straight into the exhaust. What I was told is that the original, while it won’t leak exhaust into the engine compartment, won’t last very long if used. We are putting it in the storage for spare parts.
I was told the cost to have a mixing elbow made of stainless steel 3,500 pesos, about $175 US. This compares to $210 that I paid in December 2018 for a steel one. 

So, this generator came with NO instructions on how to hook it up. The three guys looked at the old one (they took pictures) and did the best they could, when they had it ready to run, they tested it and only got 81 volts. We tried hooking up a charger to the battery, and  it still only got to 81 volts. We called Mastry and walked through the connections to the voltage regulator where we discovered that the two GREEN wires from the exciter were NOT supposed to be hooked up to the regulator, rather the two wires that came from the breaker were supposed to be used. So, those two green wires are supposed to be left unused capped and insulated. Generator tested SAT! Frequency runs a bit high, but voltage is correct and it runs!!!! Total repair bill was $1,462, the extra $182 was for parts, repairing the exhaust mixing elbow, and installing the raw water impeller on the generator and the engine. 

As of June 20, 2022 the new solar panels and controllers are installed. I  forgot to get pictures of the breakers between the charge controllers and the batteries and the charge controllers and the breakers between the panels and the charge controllers. I will update this when I have those pictures.

We have finally completed our solar upgrade. Some background:

We had 470 watts of solar panels on the boat when we bought it, this was two panels at 235 watts each that fed an Outback FlexMax 60 controller. This provided a maximum of about 20 – 25 amps depending on the angle to the sun and how much cloud cover there was. 

Our boat has significant loads on the battery system. We have a freezer, a refrigerator, and a beverage cooler. There are other things that run on our boat like fans and lights etc. 

Typically overnight we use about 30% of our battery bank, 600 ah (amp hours). Or about 200 ah used overnight. Then with our old solar we would gain back about 10% of our battery bank capacity during the day.  So, we start at 100%, at the end of the day, in the morning we are down to about 70%, by the end of the next day we are at about 80%, then in the morning 50%, by the end of that day up to 60% etc. This all assumes we don’t run the engine or generator to help anywhere along the way. 

Our new system is 1,100 watts of solar panels with each panel going to a separate controller. 1100/470=2.34. We have about 2 1/3 times as much power coming in now. We were getting 10%. So, at the very least we should get 23.4%. 

Really, though, let’s take another look at this. 470 watts was sufficient to run the loads during the daylight hours that overnight used 200 ah, AND put another 10% back in. So, we should get 10% from the first 470 watts, and 10% from the next 470 watts (and also the amount of power that is used by the refrigeration etc. 200 ah/10 hours approximately) and we still have about a third again as much power. What I am expecting is 60ah (10%) + 260 ah (the second 470 watts) + 88 ah (the 1/3 of what the second 470 watts is making) for a total of around 408 ah. Of course the reality is that once the battery bank is full we won’t see any more power from the solar panels. So, if we use 300 ah overnight, we can only put 300 ah back in. Then we are fully charged. 

So, what did we do? We looked at the arch and said how big of a solar array can I put up there. At this point I am aware that the panels will not be aligned optimally because they are in a fixed arrangement. What we got out of the old panels is about 66% of what they are rated at. One of our sons has a solar system on the roof of his RV and he also has them in a fixed arrangement. He sees about 66% of rated output. We both have made sure that there is minimal shading for our systems. I have done a bunch of reading on this, and if you can’t adjust the panel angle to the sun, you will get something less than optimal output. As you have heard me say (I am sure) EVERYTHING IS A COMPROMISE. Advantage of having the angle moveable would be more output from the panels. Disadvantage is that the parts that would make it moveable would be exposed to salt air and water, which means corrosion. It would also be weaker and this is a pretty big flat surface for the wind to work on. On top of that, it is important that the panels are aligned correctly to the sun as well. Which is something I will have little to no control over anyway. When the boat is moving, we are not going just anywhere we are going from point A to point B, and probably won’t be going directly away from or towards the sun. When we are at anchor, the boat typically will face into the wind/current, which may or may not have anything to do with where the sun is. I believe it is better to work with averages at this point and assign a fairly low efficiency rating (like 66%) to the rated output. Some days we may see more, somedays less. But it gives us a place to start.

We started with what we had, two panels rated at 235 watts each mounted on the arch. Also on the arch were 6 antenna’s and the wire for a seventh. Those were:

3 GPS antennas. 

1 for the VHF radio (marine radio line of sight)

1 for the AIS radio (marine Automatic Identification System – required for large ships, optional for sailboats, nice to have)

1 for the SSB radio (short wave, beyond line of sight)

1 AIS transceiver antenna 

1 SiriusXM antenna (radio without commercials)

1 Iridium antenna (satellite communications)

1 Satellite TV (the antenna was going but the wire was still in the arch

2 lights, one is a stern light for navigation, the other is a flood light to help get the dinghy aboard at night.

2 stereo speakers for listening to the radio 

2 Solar panels

That is a total of 13 sets of wires that had to come out of the arch before the grinding/welding could be done for the supports for the new panels. Some of the wires had to be removed from the back of the radio and pulled out to the antenna, some from the bottom of the antenna back to the radio, or in the case of the lights/solar panels/stereo speakers, just into the aft lazarette under the arch. This alone took 3 days, the first day the electrician worked by himself, the second day he had a helper, the third day there were 3 of them working. The reason all the wires had to be removed was proven later.

Then the welders showed up and took the old panels down and ground off the supports for them. Once they were off, the arch was ground smooth and polished so that it looked like they had never been there. This took about two days. Then over the course of about a week the new supports were fabricated and welded into place for the new panels. All of the welds were ground smooth and polished again. We chose to use 316 stainless steel rather than 304 stainless steel. The difference is the 304 is stronger, but not as likely to not rust as the 316, oh and by the way it is about twice the cost.  The welder we chose was one of the three bids we got, and a point in his favor was when he showed up and identified the ladders on our boat saying that he made those. His bid was not the highest or the lowest, for the 304, and it was the only one that bid on the 316 version.  

One thing that we had asked to get fixed along with all of this was the swim ladder that had broken off a bolt on the side of the ladder. This was a bit of a pain, the ladder is a “must have” to get back on the boat if you are swimming off the back end of the boat. Without the bolt/nut that was broken, there was really not an issue as the part that was broken was past where it supported the weight of the ladder and person on it. But, it had a sharp edge (I got a scrape from it in January and did not draw very much blood, but you can still see the mark in July). This was also fixed while they worked on the arch. 

Finally all the welding/grinding was done for about $2,500.

Now about the panels, the old panels were physically 65.4” x 39” the new panels were quite a bit larger, 90” x 45”. I did a bunch of searching on the internet and found that the panels I wanted were 670 watts each, but they are brand new and everywhere I turned I found that the only way I could get them is if I ordered a LOT, as in 100,000 panels. Well that was out. 

So, I looked at smaller panels that would fit between the antenna’s on the arch and had decided to go with 3 panels at about 450 watts each that would just fit between the antenna (barely) this would have been 1350 and they would have been 75” x 45” and would have required moving 4 antenna mounts out to the edges of the arch. 

A compromise was the two panels at 550 watts each. They fit between the existing antenna mounts and were available that week and were delivered to the boat for about $350 each. The two controllers were another $500 each.

https://www.jasolar.com//uploadfile/2021/0706/20210706053524693.pdf

The controllers I selected were Victron Energy 100/50 smart controllers, these interface with the Cerbo GX which is the control display interface for the charger/inverter that we have already got.  

https://www.victronenergy.com/solar-charge-controllers/smartsolar-100-30-100-50

Now that the panels were installed it was time to do the wiring, this was a couple of WEEKS of the three guys pulling wires and hooking stuff up. While doing this, some of the rope that had been left in the arch from before for pulling wire (which was made of nylon) melted inside the arch and was difficult to remove. If it any wire would have been left inside the arch it might have been welded to the inside of the pipe. In any case they got all the wires run and hooked back up and the controllers set up. We put the controllers inside the chart locker, which we don’t use anyway. I had a wood guy cut a hole for a fan and we have a 12 volt fan to keep the controllers cool as well. 

Cost for the electrical work was bout $4,500.

Total cost of the project about $8,500. This is a huge upgrade to the boat. 

In December 2020, we replaced our batteries with Lithium batteries and to make them last longer we don’t charge to 100% during the summer when we are off the boat. It is still somewhat uncomfortable for me to walk away from the boat, knowing that if we screw up the batteries by letting them go dead or overcharging them, we will have to replace them at about $6,000. So, it helps that the new setup is all visible and controllable via the internet. I have everything set and holding the batteries at about 73% charged. 

I have probably touched on this a time or two in my other posts, but here is a more specific discussion of the electric systems on our boat. Also options I am considering and reasons that I am considering some of these changes.

There is a lot of information here, as this is a place for me to put all my notes on what I am thinking about.

Batteries (3 banks as follows):

1 Type 27, AGM 100 AH battery start for Engine

1 Type 27, AGM 100 AH battery start for Generator

6 Type 31XT AGM 125 AH, total 750 AH battery bank for house, windlass, and bow thruster

6 Battleborn LiFePO4 100 AH, total 600 AH battery bank for house, windlass and bow thruster. Replaced December 2020

Sources of power

2 30 amp shore power connections

8 KW generator

470 watts solar via an Outback FLEXmax 60 controller (two 235 watt panels) (more on this later)

1,100 watts solar via 2 100/50 Victron Energy smart chargers. Replaced June 2022

100 amp alternator on the engine

15 amp alternator on the generator

Battery chargers:

110 amp charger/2000 watt inverter (house bank only), (I previously believed this was a 2500 watt inverter, I have checked model numbers and verified that it is a 2000 watt inverter).

60 amp charger (house and engine start battery only)

AC system:

There are four sources of AC power on this boat.

1. Shore power Line 1, powers bus “A”, outlets (more on this later), water heater (which is also heated by the cooling water in the engine) both battery chargers, and the beverage cooler (which is AC/DC powered). Limit on this is 30 amps, not an issue unless we are powering both “A” and “B” buses.

2 Shore power Line 2, power bus “B”, (this bus can be powered from bus “A”) Air Conditioning, washer/dryer and water maker. Limit is 30 amps, the water maker does not get run in port, so not on shore power, only on the generator.

3. Generator, can be aligned to only bus “A” or both buses.

1. Limit on the generator is 80 amps, which means we can power everything at once and still have no concerns about overloading it.

4 Inverter, only powers the outlets. This is seamless and requires only turning on the inverter to power the outlets, completely automatic.

Three DC systems, easiest first:

1. Generator start battery is charged by the alternator on the generator. The only loads on this system are the generator.

2. Engine start battery is charged by the alternator on the engine, and the 60 amp charger, both of these use a smart controller to send power to the house bank or the engine start battery. Loads on this system are associated with the engine.

3. House bank is charged by the 110 amp charger, the 60 amp charger, the 110 amp alternator on the engine, and the solar panels. Loads are a bit more complicated:

1. house loads, refrigeration (freezer, refrigerator, and drink cooler) lights, radios and instruments, inverter, head pumps, water pumps etc.

2. Bow Thruster, this is a 6 horse power 12 volt motor in the front of the boat. This means that it takes 350-400 amps to make it work. The copper in the cable is about the diameter of a penny, and with the insulation about the size of a nickel.

3. Anchor windlass a large motor that uses gears to haul the anchor and chain back on board. Pretty big wire for that as well.

4. Three electric wenches, two for the jib sheets, and one for the main sheet.

 

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Below this line needs to be updated

Concerns with this system, in no particular order:

1. There is no breaker, or switch between the battery and the bow thruster, only a huge fuse.

2. The house bank is 750 ah, but it is a lead acid battery (AGM) so in reality, we are limited to no more than 50% of that capacity or 375 ah.

1. On a typical night, we use about 35% of battery capacity to run the anchor light and the refrigeration, (we have a lot of refrigeration for a boat). If we watch a movie, add another 5%. If we use the microwave, figure 1% per minute.(Yeah it really is that much).

2. Charging a lead acid battery takes a long time. Even though we have two battery chargers (110 + 60 amps) we can’t put that much into the batteries. So, if we have a cloudy day, we can expect to run the generator for about 3 hours a day to bring it back to fully charged.

3. The house bank is about 6 years old, and typically an AGM battery is only good for about 7 or 8 years. Sometimes, a bit longer.

3. Age in general of all components. No particular issues (yet), but some parts of this system are getting old.

Thoughts on changes.

1. A breaker/switch will be installed in the circuit for the bow thruster.

2. Solar panel options

LG makes panels that are about the same size as our current panels that are 375 watts each, ours are 235. Swapping them out would take us from 470 watts of solar to 750 watts. This is within the limits of our current controller  (750 watts).

https://www.lg.com/us/business/solar-panels/lg-lg375q1c-v5

LG375Q1C-V5

375W High Efficiency LG NeON® R Solar Panel with 60 Cells(6 x 10), Module Efficiency: 20.8%, Connector Type: MC4

Module Dimensions (L x W x H)

1,700mm x 1,016mm x 40m

66 59/64” x  40” (These are 1” wider and about 1 inch longer than what we have now, 39” x 65.4”).

Solar 2 panels, 235 watts each, total 470 Watts, Controller: Outback FLEXmax 60, input voltage is approximately 57 volts. 

Solar Panels Kyocera KD235GX-LPB 39” x 65.4”

The manual for the controller says that the maximum wattage of solar panels for this controller is 750 watts, I have 470, which leaves 280 watts more before I would HAVE to get a new controller. If we can design a system that would give significantly more power than 750 watts, I would be willing to consider getting a new controller. 

I would also be willing to just get a new controller to go with the new panels to add to the mix, as in 470 watts on the existing system and 450 (+/-) on the new system. 

3. I am considering replacing the house bank batteries with Lithium, specifically a LiFEPO4 battery. I have been looking at a battery that is 1000 ah, they have a smaller version at 700 ah.

1. There is a table below with a comparison of 3 kinds/sizes of Lithium batteries and the Lifeline type 31 XT AGM’s that we have.

2. Some important notes about these comparisons, typically the AGM’s are good for about 5,000 cycles (discharged to 50% and recharged), the Lithium batteries are good for about 20,000 cycles (discharge to 80% of capacity then recharged). The 700 ah and 1000 ah batteries are actually individual cells, it takes 4 of them to get 12 volts (nominal), the Battleborn Lithium batteries are “drop in” replacements for a standard 12 volt battery, so the right shape, and 100 ah each. Note that the Battleborn batteries would be as much money ($5,700) for 600 ah (480 ah useable) as the 1,000 ah (800 ah useable) of the other batteries. The cycle difference, means that instead of about 8 years life for the batteries, it would be closer to 30 years. Way beyond where we would care. Also, if we owned the boat 16 years after we changed the batteries over, the cost would be less to go with Lithium.

3. Initial cost for the Lithium batteries is pretty high, but when you consider the advantages, it is really not that expensive. Consider that we would go from 375 ah useable to 800 ah useable. Consider that the Lithium batteries take full charging current until they are fully charged. So, if we had a regular night at anchor and watched a movie, we would have used 35% of 750 ah (~250 ah),  and had a cloudy day the next day, we would have to run the generator about 4 hours to recharge the battery. With the Lithium we can charge at a higher rate of charge (maybe 200 amps, and at a flat rate for the full charge). So about an hour. Also, considering that the batteries would have 800 ah available, if we used 250 ah we could go three days like that before we would have to charge the batteries.

4. Negatives to changing to the Lithium, we would almost certainly have to change the 110 amp/2000 watt inverter, and the 60 amp chargers. So, more money.

5. Having just completed measurements of the two battery compartments, there is a table below for that as well. What it shows is that there will need to be some modifications to allow either the 700 or 1000 ah battery options.

1. For the 1000 ah battery, the compartment behind the seat is not big enough, nor tall enough. There is room to modify, as the compartment measurements are the bottom and this compartment has the hull as the outside wall, which tapers outward as it gets taller, so if we raised the floor a couple of inches, we would get the width, but we also need the height, so, it would take room out of the space above, probably most of the compartment. Not a real good option.

2. For the 700 ah battery, the compartment behind the seat would probably work. The fore/aft measurement was an approximation, there are wires and other things at the end, so it would be tight length wise. It might also be possible to get the engine and generator start batteries in the same compartment behind the seat, thereby freeing up the battery compartment under the seat for storage. This would also be a reduction of 259 pounds from the port side of the boat. 560 ah vs 375 ah (useable) is about a 50% increase. Cost would be about $1500 more than just replacing the batteries, plus the cost of changing chargers.

6. I have more investigation to do concerning battery options, and sizes. I have only really started looking into this.

		MM	IN	KG	LBS	*4 inches	*4 lbs	Price with S/H	Price per rated AH	useable	Price per useable A/H
WB-LYP700AHA	Height	305	12					$3,968		560
	Width	67	2.6			10.56
	length	627	24.7
	weight			21	46.3		185		$5.67		$7.09
WB-LYP1000AHC(A)	Height	356	14					$5,672		800
	Width	130	5.1			20.5
	length	560	22
	weight			41	90.4		362		$5.67		$7.09
						*6 (2*3)	*6	Price W/O S/H
LifeLine XT31	Height	241.5	9.51					$420 each		375
	Width	171.3	6.75			20.25		$2,520.00
	length	328.5	12.93			25.86
	weight			34	74		444		$3.36		$6.72
												$0.37
												$3,152.00
												$1,448.00
Pirce of Lifeline batteries vs LifePO4 batteries. The lifelines are at 750 AH rated, which is what we have, the LifePO4 are at 700 AH or 1000 AH. For the 700 AH https://everspring.net/?page_id=180 for the 1000 AH https://everspring.net/?page_id=174 March 21, 2020
		MM	IN	KG	LBS	2×3 inches	*6 lbs	Price with S/H	Price per rated AH	useable	Price per useable A/H
Battleborn 100 AH	Height		9					$5,700		480
	Width		6.875			20.625
	length		12.75			25.5
	weight				31		186		$9.50		$11.88

Battery compartment measurements
	wide (inches)	high (inches)
Access behind seat	16	9.25
Access down into battery compartment	15.5	16
	fore to aft	side to side	high
Battery compartment	24	17	13.5
Under seat
Access	15.75	9.75
Battery compartment	28	24.5	11

Bow & Anchor locker

1. Anchor 88 lb Rocna and 300 ft of 5/16” chain

2. Anchor Dan forth xx lbs and 50 ft of chain and ~250 of rope total of ~300 ft

3. 300 feet of tow rope

4. Anchor wash down hose, wash down pump is under sole in front berth

5. Two anchor bridles

On deck

Muir Cheeta windlass for anchors

Dodger, Bimini, and mesh screens for cockpit

Cockpit cushions

4 cup holder at helm

folding table (teak) at helm

Gas BBQ

BBQ folding table

stainless steel pulpits at mast

two 30 amp Shore power connections and breakers

Arch with davits at stern

12 foot dinghy with chaps and cover

20 horse power Suzuki (97 lbs), new October 2019

two solar panels 470 watts

3 GPS antenna’s

Ais antenna

Iridium antenna

Stereo speakers (group 3 for cabin stereo)

Light for dinghy (control at helm)

Stern light at top of arch

Stern light on stern under dinghy

Fishing pole holders (2)

flag pole holder

Lines in cockpit

Port side clutches

Main preventer

Staysail sheet

Mainsail outhaul

Mainsail curler

Starboard clutches

Main preventer

Spare halyard/spare topping lift

Main Sheet

Boom Vang

Winches on the boat (all self tailing)

Electric winches port and starboard Jib Sheet

Electric winch main sail sheet

manual winch for in/out haul

manual winch for staysail in/out

manual winch for jib out

manual winches 1 on each side of mast

Cutter rig, with lines for the spinnaker run into the cockpit.

Preventers for mainsail run from cockpit with stops to end of boom

On mast,

two clutches on starboard side

one empty

Main halyard

three clutches on port side,

Jib halyard,

staysail halyard,

third is spinnaker halyard

At top of mast

VHF antenna

Cell amplifier antenna

Wind speed/direction sensor

On mast

Speaker/loud hailer

Radar

Fore Deck light

On boom, topping lift

Standing rigging replaced October 2019

Below decks hardware

Refrigerator keel cooled

Freezer keel cooled

Beverage cooler AC/DC air cooled

Generator MASPOWER 8KW

Magnum 2000 watt inverter/110 amp charger

60 amp charger

House bank 750 ah, (6 type 31XT Lifeline batteries)

Engine start battery 100 ah

Generator start battery 100 ah

100 amp Balmar external regulator alternator on engine

11 gallon hot water heater, heated by 110 vac and engine coolant loop, under starboard settee

Air conditioning

  7,000 btu in forward cabin

  7,000 btu in aft cabin

13,000 btu in salon

sea water pump for A/C

Water maker 20 GPH. AC powered, new June 2019

small AC pump under aft stateroom berth supplies pressure to filter for water maker

large high pressure pump for water maker in aft lazaretto

Bow thruster 6 Hp, side power bow thruster under forward berth

anchor wash down pump under deck in fwd berth port side

Macerator under deck center in fwd berth

Vacu-flush heads

fwd pump under deck next to mast

aft pump under port settee in main salon

Shower drain pumps

fwd under port settee in main salon

aft under deck in aft stateroom next to head

fresh water pump under starboard settee

12 volt 2 speed fans throughout boat (9)

Generator start battery is only charged by alternator on generator.

House bank is charged by:

Solar (Outback FLEXmax 60 with 470 watts of panels on arch)

110 amp charger

60 amp charger

the engine alternaor

Engine start battery is charged via engine alternator and 60 amp charger

Tankage:

Fuel oil 160 gallons (stainless steel?)

Fresh water 260 gallons (fiberglass)

Holding tank 55 gallons (fiberglass)

Electronics:

Fusion 755 AM/FM/XM/CD/DVD 3 sets of speakers (1 in salon, 1 in cockpit, 3rd set on arch plays

to TV in salon.

stereo in aft stateroom AM/FM/CD/DVD plays to aft stateroom TV

VHF radio

SSB radio with proctor modem, antenna on aft starboard stay

AIS transponder

Iridium GO!

Cell amplifier

Raymarine E120 chart plotters, master at nav station, slave at helm.

Raymarine electronics

Auto pilot (Electric)

Xantrex battery monitor

Engine 75 Hp Yanmar, 3 blade prop

Fuel filter priming system (switch in under box for sink, inside engine room)