Santispac, Friday, December 4, then Santispac to Caleta San Juanico, Saturday, December 5

We got up around 7 am. Renee’ has a bit of headache, and while there is some wind blowing it is not like it has been. Still not calm enough to deal with the spinnaker, but pretty mild compared to what we have had for the last couple of weeks. Today is a rest day waiting on the wind, tomorrow at first light we plan to get underway, as we have about 50 miles to go.


We got up a little before our alarm went off at 6:30, as the coffee maker was brewing. Neither of slept that well, Renee’ was worse than me. We got underway by 7:30 and had 30 knots of wind on the nose going up the channel out of Bahia Concepcion. This is a narrow shallow channel and the shallowest we saw was about 8 feet. When you look at Google Earth for this bay, it looks like the channel is pretty wide and the bay is pretty big. Well the bay is big, but the “deep” part of the channel is not very wide at all. After we were through the narrow/shallow part of the channel, we had breakfast and did our bible reading for the day. I have a screenshot of GoogleEarth that shows the channel to be over 2 miles wide. It also shows Santispac and Santo Domingo

Anyway, we got around the point, and got our sails set, the motor off and the generator going and the water maker running by about 9 am. We had a good day sailing, rather intense, as the wind was usually around 30 knots, at least until it was time to take in the sails when it was closer to 30-35 knots. We sailed most of the day at 6 – 8 knots part of the day wing on wing using the Main sail and the Staysail. 

Renee’ fished, using both poles, the one with the rattler was used to attract fish, lost the lure (this is a “tin” fish with a couple of hooks on it. The other pole with a feather caught a Mahi Mahi probably about 10 – 15 lbs, but we did not get it on board, and lost the fish. We looked it up in the fish book and saw that the eating of this was defined as “nothing better”. Oh well, Renee’ put a new lure (a cedar) on the pole that lost the rattler, and put both lines out. About an hour later she had a fish on the cedar, and I had instructions to bring in the other line, so that we did not have two fish at the same time. Unfortunately this is when we found out the feather was missing. So, loss of two lures today, and a Bonito with at least 3 lbs of meat off it, not quite as good as the Mahi Mahi, but still good eating.  Of course both fish were caught just as we needed to to change course on our route south. Also the second one after we got it aboard, and I got the head off of it, she had to clean as I had to keep watching and sailing as the wind was picking up etc. 

Later in the day, we had to take in the sails in preparation for anchoring for the night. Of course by then we had 35 knots of wind behind us. So, I thought about how to do this and did the following:

    1. Renee’ put the fish in the fridge.
    2. Stopped the Watermaker.
    3. Turned off the generator.
    4. Removed the preventer from the Staysail.
    5. Started the engine.
    6. Renee’ got ready to pull in the main sheet.
    7. Turned into the wind as Renee’ brought in the main sheet.
    8. Once the boat was turned we brought in the staysail sheet.
    9. Furled the staysail.
    10. Renee’ took over driving and kept us into the wind.
    11. I worked on furling the mainsail, which meant letting the out-haul in a bit then as the sail flapped brought in the furling line, then repeated until the sail was furled.
    12. Tightened all the lines and I took over driving again.
    13. Got back on course, as we finished putting away lines.

This took about 20 minutes and was incredibly intense. 

We finally pulled in to San Juanico and found three other boats already here, which means the best anchorages are already taken. So, it will be a bit rolly tonight, Again Oh well. (Should not be as bad as the other night). 

Bahia Concepcion, showing some of the places mentioned
Sailing wing-on-wing, with the staysail and main. True wind 16.7 knots, from behind, boat speed 7.1 knots.

Santa Domingo to Santispac, Thursday, December 3

Well so much for the plans of mice and men. Overnight winds were Horrible! The boat rocked and rolled all night, things fell off shelves, and stuff slid across the floor. Oh, and yeah not much sleep was had by either of us. On the other hand, once again our anchor and chain kept the boat right where we left it. In the morning we got up as planned at 5:30, then promptly reset the alarm for 6:30 (hopping for a bit more light). When we got up, we checked the tide schedule and the weather and decided that today would be a good day to opt out and go to Santispac (a much more protected anchorage). We wanted high tide, as the channel into Bahia Concepcion is somewhat shallow (in some places less than 20 feet). So, when we found that high tide had been 20 minutes before we looked, we got moving and motored in. Watching the depth and windspeed. Highest wind speed we saw was just over 40 knots, and shallowest water was about 19 feet. We dropped anchor in 30 feet of water at about 9 am, had breakfast and went to bed.

We got up about 12:30, and had lunch and Renee’ is working on zippers and snaps on deck and I am finishing up the notes for the blog. 

I have been watching our batteries and solar system for a bit, it is somewhat hard to tell, as we have either run the motor or been on shore power or run the engine and the generator. In any case, today we ran the motor for a couple of hours, we started the morning with the batteries at about 65%, our refrigeration and takes a bunch of current. (A freezer, refrigerator, and a drink cooler). In the middle of the day we are getting about 15 – 20 amps out of the panels, but only about 8-10 (or less) of those amps are getting into the battery. This means that when we anchored this morning with the battery at 71%, and turned off the engine, with nothing going except the refrigeration, we are only at 79% by 2:30, and right now, we are pulling 7 amps out of the battery. We will be running the generator tonight to top off the battery.  This means we can’t leave the boat on a mooring ball or at anchor for the time we go to the states for Christmas or skiing in February.  Perhaps if we emptied the freezer and the drink cooler and only had the refrigerator going. 

Another downside to Santispac over Santa Domingo, there is no cell reception and we have heard that there is no WiFi ashore here either. So, we can check the weather and do texting and get email via the satellite, I just checked the weather and it looks like we will be here at anchor tomorrow as well, then headed south on Saturday morning. 

Our next planned stop is Caletta San Juanico about 50ish miles south. Again, partially protected from the north winds. We were planning on being there a couple of days to do some hiking. We will see how that works out. From there south to Bahia Salinas which is on Isla Carmen and is very protected from the north. Next planned stop after that is Bahia Agua Verde and dropping off the school supplies. We have come south about 340 miles straight line from Puerto Peñasco, and it is 520 miles straight line from Puerto Peñasco to La Paz. So, only about 180 miles to go, of course we don’t do straight lines very well, so more like 250 miles or so to go.

Dinner was pulled pork sandwiches, Renee’ did the pork in the pressure cooker, used a little orange and a couple of jalapeños in the process, we could taste the orange, but not the peppers (she took the seeds out, so we were just expecting some flavor, not heat). We ran the generator for a few hours to charge the battery back up, and watched a movie, “A Fistful of Dollars” with Clint Eastwood.

Just another sunrise
Yeah, the beard is getting longer!
Another pretty island

Santa Rosalia to Santo Domingo, Wednesday, December 2

We got up at about 7 am, had breakfast and read the Bible for the day. Straightened up below decks, Renee’ glued one of the latches back in for the door to the washing machine. Then we got off the dock by about 8:40 and over to the fuel dock by about 9 am. Got fuel 453.3 liters (119.3 gallons) and underway by 9:45. We made really good time, even sailed for about 3 hours at up to 7.5 knots. Finally got to Santo Domingo just before sunset and dropped anchor. It looks like it will be a rolly night. Advantages here is that it is about 2 hours less than going into Santispac in Bahia Concepcion, and an hour or so south of Punta Chavato. So, we are giving up some protection for the time. 

Island Packet (a 370) S/V Sundance (Mentioned on Nov. 25
Buying diesel in Mexico, pesos are about 20 to the dollar, and don’t forget there is a 12% docking fee for buying the fuel in a boat. While it sounds high, consider in the states fuel price at the dock is typically 1 to 2 dollars more per gallon than at a gas station. Here the price is regulated and it is all the same.
One of our last views of Santa Rosalia
The dredge that is in action clearing the bottom of the anchorage
19 knots of wind, boat speed at 6.5 knots, engine in neutral or off. A great day sailing!

Santa Rosalia, November 28, 29, 30 and December 1

We had a pretty late start to the day, sleeping in until 7:30 or so.

Eventually we had breakfast and did our bible reading. Then we checked the dock lines as it had been pretty mild from about midnight on, but the wind was starting to pick up. Renee’ got the laundry together and headed up to get it done. I caught up the blog and did the dishes. I usually do them, it is one of the divisions of effort that we have come to. She makes the meals (I eat them!) and typically afterwards I do the dishes. Sometimes, like when we are on the water, I will be driving the boat and she will make the meal and do the dishes as well.

In any case that took all morning and some of the early afternoon. I am also going to change the oil in the engine today. We have looked at the weather and it looks WINDY for the next several days, so we may have to adjust our plans on when to leave.

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We got up and had breakfast and wanted to watch a live sermon, so we went up to the office to get better WiFi, and watched the sermon for the day from Stonebridge church in Iowa. Then walked into town and had lunch at a Mexican restaurant with Paul and Sharon S/V Sundance. Then off to an autocrats store for oil. Then back to the boat. Renee’ walked to the grocery store and hardware to get a coffee pot and stuff.

I attempted to watch a 15 minute video for Kyle about a cell/WiFi antenna for his RV. Finally we went back up to the office to FaceTime with Kyle and family. Then back to the boat  for happy hour then dinner and a movie. Overall a pretty quiet day, except for the non stop 20+ knot wind blowing all day.

Oh, and no pictures.

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Another quiet day. We got up late and Renee’ went to the store and I changed the oil on the engine. I really hate that job, it is messy, painful and difficult. When I get done I feel like I have only done half an oil change. The reason for that is there is no way to drain the oil out from the bottom, so you have to syphon it out the dipstick tube. Which means that you never get the last of the oil out, the part that has most of the junk in that you really want to get out.

In any case, I loaned my vacuum pump for oil changes to Joe and he changed his oil as well.

After all was done we cleaned up and went for a walk ending at Turcos, a restaurant in town. Pretty good food, great company.

Then back to the boat, showers and bed.

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Another quiet day. We are really getting tired of too much wind. We expect to leave in the morning. First stop is to get fuel then head to Santo Domingo. Renee’ was looking at stuff in the hanging locker in the master stateroom, and figured out that the bag of desiccant for keeping the cupboard dry had filled up with water and in fact had leaked, soaking the cedar in the back and some of the clothes as well. This bag had been left in the locker over the summer, she had removed all the rest of these “dryers” before we left in June, but missed this one. Oh well, now we have wood to dry out. 

Santo Domingo is a semi protected anchorage at the opening of Bahia Concepcion. So, today is saying goodbyes, and doing the laundry and last trip to a store. 

One of our favorite restaurants in Santa Rosalia (or course I can’t remember the name of it).
Just another moonrise
One of the views we just have to get used to….
The water track in the back of the hanging locker
What we have planned

 

Mulegé, Friday, November 27, 2020

We had a big breakfast, one of the things we bought when we were out in town was fresh large tortillas. Renee’ made a sausage pepper and onion mix to go with scrambled eggs and salsa. She added cheese to hers. One of the things about the Sea of Cortez is that this time of the year the weather tends to include strong northerly winds. Today is an example, there are 20+ knot winds on the sea headed south, this includes whitecaps inside the harbor. So, we doubled our dock lines, I had help from the security guard here in the marina. After we were done, Francisco changed one of the lines from being doubled onto a cleat to one going to the cleat and the other around the piling. Quite a bit better, but it does mean we have to duck when leaving the boat.

Then we caught up on Facebook for a while. Finally heading up to the bus at about 10:15 to catch the bus to Mulegé. This is a town we went to last year that does not have a good harbor or protected anchorage. Last year we anchored off shore and took the dinghy up the river and walked into town. Good we got into town, Bad we hit a rock with the prop on the dinghy, and “OH yeah, it was raining all day!”

This me we had fantastic weather to see the city and the sights. There is a mission here, we had to cross a small dam to get to it, this dam makes for a small lake which waters a grove of palm trees. There is a museum here that is housed in the first prison in California, (the state in the US, Baja California Norte and Baja California Our). We really wanted to see the museum, but it was closed for Covid 

We had a beer at the Mulegé brewing company (Stout!) very tasty! Then wandered around town to do some shopping and sight seeing. Making sure to find the colored letters for the city and getting a picture standing in front of it. 

We had dinner at a restaurant that was recommended by Francisco (from the marina) we had scallops and fish tacos and watch some humming birds at a feeder through the window. The food was awesome and the bill for the meal was about $25.

Finally it was time to head back, our bus was scheduled for 6 pm, but about half past we were told that the bus had broken down somewhere south of us, and we would have to take the 7 pm bus instead. Which was late as well. We got back to the boat about 9 pm or so and off to bed we went. 

I have added a link to the right that shows our current position/track.

The bus we took to Mulegé
The Mulegé brewing company
Our first micro brewery in Mexico this season
Just a cool bench
The dam we had to cross to get to the mission
Inside the mission (we missed getting a picture of the outside)
Looking back towards the door of the mission
An overlook of the city, lake and area
The lake and palm trees
This is to show that yes indeed we are here and having a good time
The arch into the city
The prison/museum
Front side of the museum
The door with the sign that says closed for Covid
A church we saw in town
This picture is taken standing under the bridge that the main highway goes over, and shows the “dock” on the right side that is as far up stream as we came in the dinghy the last time we were here.
The colored letters that are the towns name
Another view of the river
The humming bird feeder with a large yellow bird, which was constantly being chased away from the feeder
Some of the humming birds we saw.