Barrancas del Cobre (Copper Canyon), January 22

We got up at 7 am, saw the view from the room!!!!! It was fantastic! Then after showers we went to breakfast (included with the room) and then met the shuttle driver who took us to the “Adventure Park” with ZIP lines and a Gondola, some hiking and more crafts to buy. One thing about the Adventure park, we had our temperature checked and were given antibacterial hand soap frequently, at least 4 times from when we got out of the car to when we got into the Gondola. Many times, within sight of the last place we had it done. On one occasion we got a little sticker on our shoulder after we had our temp taken. This place would have easily handled several thousand people but today there were probably about 100 or so.

I have no desire to do a zip line, here in Mexico or anywhere else either. Renee’ thought about it, but it was pretty cold. We took the Gondola, it goes down about 3000 meters into the canyon and from there we got a guided hike. Probably a good thing to have a guide as the trails are not really well defined, and since some of the canyon has livestock in it, some of the sloops have literally hundreds of paths cut by the animals criss crossing them. The hike we picked was listed as 3 hours for 250 pesos, and Renee’ and I walk somewhat fast, so we only walked for two hours, probably 2 or 3 miles long. We saw some beautiful views and our guide was a 17 year old local he did a pretty good job of waiting for us. (As in yes he could certainly out walk us, probably on his hands!).

After the hike we found a restaurant at the park and had hamburgers and beer. This was the first really good beer we have had in quite a while. It is a Porter that is brewed in Chihuahua, under license from Bolivia, and is 6% ABV. It was pretty expensive, but we are on vacation so we bough an extra 6 bottles to take with us. 95 pesos per bottle, 570 pesos or $28.54!!!! But, it is really good beer! We enjoyed the view for a while then got in touch with the driver and went back to the hotel.  At about 3:30 or so.

Showers and a nap, then down to the lobby for a game of cards and dinner. Tonight, dinner started with Chicken noodle soup for me and Cream of Carrot soup for Renee’. The main course was a tee bone steak, with beans and guacamole, served with tortillas, desert was cake.

We have arranged an all day tour tomorrow with an English speaking driver. But for now, it is time to get some sleep.

Yes, we got LOTs of pictures! When we get back to the boat, I will have a pretty big job of sorting them to post on the blog.

Another great view
Just us again
The Gondola
Just us again
This is the car we rode
This is the other car
An obligatory picture
Ok so the accuracy might be a bit lacking (Colorado? Arizona?)
Another view
What can I say? Another great view
Our 17 year old trail guide next to Renee’
What can I say? Another great view
Just another view
Some really good beer
I pointed out this place to get a picture, Renee’ took the picture (and got in trouble for it)
Like I said the beer was very good

Divisidora, January 21

First an update on the travel plans, the van is 500 pesos each. The bus station at this end is a short walk. So, we’re taking the bus.

The bus ride was pretty good and dropped us off at the station for the bus and the Chepe train and the hotel is across the street.  So, not quite door to door service, we had to walk about 300 yards more than if we had gone with the van. (That includes both ends of the trip).

Once we got to our hotel and got checked in, we took our stuff to our room and saw a fantastic view of…. FOG. No surprise, we had seen it coming as we came up in the bus. Our room has a balcony, and is set back from the edge of the canyon at least 20 feet (but not 100 feet). We are hoping for a clear day tomorrow. We walked out the front of the hotel and went looking for lunch. What we found is that the hotel sells lunch (pretty pricey for Mexico) and there are some small stands across the street where they also sell the crafts they make.  Then back to the room, for a movie, we watched “It’s a Beautiful Day in the Neighborhood”. The area (can’t even call it a town) is very small, and the small shops across the street close up at 3 pm. After lunch we went back to the room and took naps before dinner.

Dinner at the hotel is served from 7 pm to 9 pm, and was as I said before pricey. There is no competition, at all, anywhere. But, it was pretty good. Dinner started with Cream of Cauliflower soup for Renee’ and nothing for me. The main course was chicken grilled, and on top of mashed potatoes (creamy) for Renee’ and spaghetti noodles for me. With cooked vegetables squash and onions and all was pretty good and followed up with lemon pie for desert.  I had a glass of red wine and Renee’ had a bottle of Topochico (sparkling mineral water) total bill was 770 pesos ($38.55). Again, pricey for Mexico but reasonable for the states.  After dinner we headed back to the room and bed.

The view from our room when we got there.
Looking at our room (2nd floor middle) from the area outside the bar/lobby of the restaurant
One of the views we saw
One of our lunch time companions
The view from our room at the bar/lobby of the hotel
Looking at our room (2nd floor middle) from the area outside the bar/lobby of the restaurant (WITHOUT THE FOG)
This is one of the views from the restaurant
Inside the bar
View from the Chepe train station at the bus and our hotel

Creel, January 20

We woke up to rain, something we have not experienced much in the last year or so. Our lifestyle pretty much prevents us being where it rains, when it rains. In any case, we decided to take a tour today and discussed it over breakfast Huevos Rancheros and waffles, fruit with yogurt (for Renee’, without for me). The couple at the other end of the table from us, were already booked for the tour and we were able to tag along.

The price for a 5 hour tour was 1000 pesos ($50) for the two of us, and was money well spent. Except, did I mention it was COLD!! Even in the van. We saw more rocks snapped like animals and things (Elephants, Eagles, Hawks, Mushrooms, Chi-Chi’s (boobs) and “Monks” which in the original language are penis’s). We also saw a fantastic waterfall (Cascade de Cusarare’, Eagles Nest Waterfall). The walk from where we parked the van to the waterfall was about 500 meters, and 450 of it was after we left the parking lot. Construction was nearing completion of a government sponsored improvement to this site. Which included new store fronts (about 400 meters long!) for the locals to sell stuff. Because of the inclement weather (still raining) crowds were down, and nobody was selling anything.  We also saw a lake and the same mission we had seen the day before, which was ok, as the driver explained some of the symbols that we saw here. The monks had incorporated the sun and moon to match the indigenous people’s spiritual beliefs. We were also told about the boarding school next to the mission. This is a boarding school for 5 days a week and is government paid for school. The wife of our driver works periodically at the school making meals, I think that is there part of what they would have to “pay”.  After the tour, we were back at the hotel around 2:30 or so, we ate our snacks and then walked across the square to the museum and from there the arts and crafts place. Both fairly interesting. Our tour guide George told us that Topolobampo means SEA LION, this is a new word for us!

Then back to our room for showers (to warm up) and a nap. Of course that is when we found out our ceiling had a leak right over the bed. I will have to look again, because this doesn’t make sense to me, we have a main floor room, and I believe that there is a room above us. In any case, they got us moved into another room within minutes. Certainly satisfactory to me, also on the main floor. (I think there are only two on the main floor).

Then out to dinner, to make a point here, I virtually never go to the same restaurant twice when I am traveling. Also, there are plenty of choices here. And OH YEAH! I am not a fan of generic beer. So, for dinner we went to La Estufa. This time Renee’ had the Chicken Fajitas and I had a Beef dinner that was served “on fire”. It was actually served in a steel cooking bowl (smaller in diameter and deeper than a wok) on a support over a chunk of varnished wood with a burning ember in a little pot. There was an avocado in the mix as well. This was another excellent dinner!

Tomorrow we will get a ride from the same guy who gave us the tour to our next hotel in Divisidora. We had planned to take the bus, the difference is 60 pesos ($3) for the bus (with a walk at both ends) and 500 pesos ($25) for the van which is door to door.

The way the indigenous people live. In a cave.
The way the indigenous people live. In a cave.
Inside where they have the stove to stay warm and sell stuff
A stone elephant
Just us again
A view of the water fall
I was amazed at how many of these little shops were set up.
The advantage of it having been raining for a couple of days
Two of the locals selling stuff
In the museum
In the museum
In the museum
This was an awesome dinner at La Stufa

Creel, January 19

We got up around 7:30 or so, got it together and went out for breakfast. The hotel provides a very good breakfast. It started with fruit and yogurt (I skipped this and asked for no yogurt the next time), then eggs and waffles. The eggs were scrambled.

After breakfast we went for a walk, down the street and out the end of town to the Mission San Ignacio. This walk took us several hours, we walked by the rocks that looked like frogs, and turtles. It was a pretty challenging walk, as it was still cold and we are at 7,700 feet. So, the air is pretty thin.

We planned on stopping for a craft beer at the LODGE here in Creel, but could not figure out where the door was and they looked closed, so we walked up the street some more and found La Estufa, which has a really great menu, and a fireplace to warm up with. Only down side is the “best beer” we could find here is Tecate Roho (Tecate Original).

After lunch, we went back to the room. I napped and Renee’ went out and checked out the little shops. When it was time for dinner, we called the craft beer place and found out that they were open, one door past where we had stopped. So, we went there for dinner.

They have three beers that they brew:

  1. An Amber
  2. A Wheat
  3. A Stout

As anyone will tell you, I love a good stout, and so does Renee’. We had the Amber. We ordered Pizza for me, and Tacos for Renee’. The Pizza was severed almost instantly, and was a supper thin crust and had a little meat on it. I would give that Pizza a score of 3 out of 10. The Tacos were so late coming that we had finished the pizza and we were wondering if it was still coming. Finally Renee’ got up and asked, and she was assured that they would be out shortly. The tacos would get an 8 out of 10 by me. The beer 5 out of 10, and so no we did not make it back here.

From there, we headed back to our room and bed. Another day done.

In the square in town near the train station and our hotel
The city sign
Stone frogs
The mission
This is for the local Indians
The bathroom
One of the beds
Note the artwork in the stairs
The breakfast table
The door to the bathroom
Our second room (without the leak)
The other view of the lobby

El Chepe train, January 18

We started with a taxi ride to the train station. This was by Felix, it is very convenient to have a driver who sets a schedule and sticks to it for a reasonable price. Once we were at the station, Renee’ went inside to see if she could upgrade our seats. She was able to get us 1st class both ways. This means better food, probably better seats and access to the bar and dining car. The dining car is a double decker with a glass ceiling, the bar car has a wrap around view out the back. I described the train in more detail on our return trip, on January 24th.

We had awesome views! And after about 9 hours arrived in Creel. We were met at the station as we were told we would be, we expected to have a car to get from the station to the hotel, but it was a walk led by the lady who met us at the train (all of about 200 yards!) Our room was really cute! (Renee’ told me so) two full size beds, and oversized shower, not as big as a bathtub but still pretty good size. Only issue is it is COLD!!  We turned the heater on and set it for 25 degrees C (77 degrees F) down from where we found it. Later we put it back where we found it, 30 degrees C, (86 degrees F) and it almost thawed out the room.

We had our hearts set on getting some of the tamales from the vendor right outside the hotel. We had heard about them before we got here. They were filled with carnitas (pork) and as good as we had been led to expect.  We ate them at the dinning table in the lobby of the hotel. Renee’ had a chocolate and peanut hot drink, and I had water.

Finally we turned in about 9 pm.

The Chepe train station in Los Mochis
The dining car
Sitting in the bar car
A view out the window from the bar
we wore our masks when there were people around and not drinking or eating
The view inside the dining car
Just us
We saw a lot of kids selling stuff, and yes we bought some
Another fantastic dinner